Objective
August 3, 2019:
My brother and I had a one day window to get on the Texas Colorado River. I wanted to recon the 20 river miles between the Columbus and Altair bridges. Normally we would launch from the historic Beason's Park in Columbus. This park, on the the south east corner of Highway 90 and the river was still closed from the flooding of Hurricane Harvey flood. Our launch would be 6-1/2 miles upstream, from Howell's Riverfront.
The length of the trip was daunting. So were the August temperatures. Weeks prior to the trip I utilized my oilfield vocation to enhance my heat training. For this trip I was in peak physical condition.
The River
The Texas Colorado River is the feisty little sister to the easier going Brazos River. Spaniards were the first to map Texas and name the Texas rivers. It is hard to write about one of these sister rivers without mention of the other. Spaniards likely confused these rivers, accidentally swapping the names.
Where present day Interstate 10 intersects these rivers they are only 29 miles apart. The geography these rivers traverse is similar from these points to the Gulf of Mexico. Forty miles apart at their mouths, these rivers merged during the 1913 flood, forming a 65 mile wide stream. Having been on both rivers, its easy to see how the Spaniards could confused these rivers.
Six major dams and one low water dam tame the Colorado. Drought and over use threaten this river now. Still, the Colorado slides through the coastal plains. Over a bed of sand she meanders, now and then cutting across an outcrop of limestone or a gravel bar. Riparian woods line the banks she waters. Wildlife flourishes here. Deer, beaver, otters, feral hogs, turkey and bald eagles are the prizes for sight seeing day trippers and campers on this river.
The Gear
Stove
Coleman 424 with a cast iron skillet.
Paddles
We used a couple of CavPro paddles and one vintage paddle.
Water Shoes
We utilized Crocs water shoes. These were almost as important as the paddles.
Coolers
We brought two, iced them down for our drinking water and food I planned to cook. Normally two coolers would not be required, but at 6'-1" and 220 pounds I am the runt of the family. My brother is 6'-8" and about 100 pounds heavier. We needed the ballast to trim the canoe.
Canoe
For this trip we used my brothers working Old Town Guide 18. This cedar and canvas beauty is fast and silent. Restored by Steve Ambrose Canoe this Old Town Guide is a fast and stable, good for packing light and covering the miles.
This is a working class canoe, more durable than many imagine. The Guides 18's sharp lines silently slice the water and the rigid hull maximizes our paddling efforts. Speed and glide were our reward. For this trip, those attributes were needed.
Logistics
Shuttling vehicles and canoes is a large part of these trips. A week in advance I arranged the launch and shuttle service with Columbus business owner Frank Howell of Howell's Riverfront.
The morning of the launch I communicated with Frank our plans to take out at the Altair boat ramp. The Altair take out was a stout challenge for us, but Frank did not flinch. Frank advised us to call him about an hour up from the take out point. As cell phones service is spotty in that region I advised Frank if he did not hear from us to meet us at 8:00 that evening at the Altair bridge.
Putting in at Howell's added the Colorado - Columbus Horseshoe Bends 6-1/2 miles for a 26 mile trip. The Howell concrete boat launch was an appreciated luxury.
The Trip
We launched August 3, 2019, 8:30 am. It was warm and humid, normal for a Texas in this season. The sky was bright with the high clouds, a good day to canoe. Thankfully the predominantly southeast wind, which is often a head wind, laid low. The river was staged in the low 10s, falling to the high 9s. I had not run the Horseshoe Bend with the river staged this low. Before this trip I had not needed to exit the canoe in this section of river due to obstructions. This trip was different. We got out of the canoe many times on the Horseshoe Bend to line the canoe over shallow waters.
Our most adventurous and technical lining was at a haystacking area I call the Waldo Rock Garden. Roughly 400 yards long we hit a submerged rock at the lower end of that water. We pulled onto a gravel bar and I evaluated the situation. In our haste we had disembarked on the shallower side of a slot. We needed to cross the deepest and swiftest part before getting back into the canoe.This was nearly unfortunate. I sure wished we were on the other bank!
I listened to the rapids and watched the turbulent waters and cleared my mind. Even though the river was low the current was strong. We needed to get past one spot and we would be free.
Eventually we lined the canoe across the slot. We wore our life jackets now, we could feel the current washing the cantaloupe sized rocks out from under our feet. At the other bank we relaunched. I'd say we lost 30 - 45 minuets there. The canoe was unharmed from the rock, by the way.
Understandably, my brother was concerned the rest of the trip would be like the first 5 miles. From Beason's Park down I knew the river better was mild, even at this low stage. I advised there was one place downstream that would require a full portage, but that was it.
We took our time at the portage just below Beason's Park. With the river receding over the summer the a set of rocks seemed to have risen out of the river, revealing their gravel bar foundation . Now these components formed a stream choking island. We landed on the gravel bar and studied the water. On the west bank shallow waters shallowly trickled over that side of the island. Center left of the river a narrow, forceful slot of water cut between the rocks and the east bank.
We ate a hearty snack, drank water and listened to the water churn through the slot. After the break we unloaded the canoe and carried it and our gear about 75 yards. We repacked the canoe and re-launched. As we toiled three deer drank from the east bank watched.
We were free again! Soon concrete pillars and arcs loomed, crossing high above the river. This was the Interstate 10 bridge. The logical lines and the off white color of the concrete concrete structure contrasted against the irregular patterns and colors of nature. This milestone marked a point of no return; and an entrance into a sublime thin place. The sound of traffic faded and an insect orchestra created an acoustical dome over us.
Altair or Bust
From here down the river is more isolated and remote. By and by a bald eagle flew ahead and waited for us to catch up. When we reached the eagle it would fly off again and wait for us to catch up. In this manner it lead us many miles. Not to overthink it, but a bald eagle leading our way seemed a good thing.
We ate a late lunch about seventeen miles from the put in at about 4:00. A Coleman stove and a hot meal in a remote area makes the trip. Heat and fatigue, apprehension and excitement delayed and minimized our appetites.
In the evening the warmth dissipated. The weather held and we made good time. In the calm and quiet, isolation and fatigue I slipped between the worlds of society and nature. An overnight stay and I would have slipped further away...
...but I was easy with what time I had, and I was resolute to finish this run strong.
Five miles up river the Altair bridge a subtle change comes to the land. The Garwood low water dam, some 9 miles downstream forms the river into a long, narrow lake. The Colorado becomes wider and deeper, gentler and more stable. Limestone outcroppings are frequent, the bluffs are higher and longer and the sandbars are bigger. Tate Bend is an example of the topography. Pecan groves frequently line the high bluffs and cypress trees are more common on the low banks.
I used to think the river cut through the woods. Satellite images reveal the Colorado meanders down a coastal prairie and a narrow strip of woods grow from its banks. From a canoe it feels like you are in the lowest part of a valley. In a sense that perception is true.
The last few miles we saw a sow with her piglets cooling at the water's edge.
Though the low stage of the river made the first six or seven miles interesting there were some good things about running the river so low.
1) Low waters meant there were plenty of sand and gravel bars to stop on to stretch our legs and rest.
2) The raised sandbars and gravel bars limited motorboat traffic. We saw one other boat, five miles from the take out.
3) High temperatures were as effective at discouraging boaters as the low water obstacles.
Four miles up from the Altair bridge I phoned Frank. As we unloaded the canoe Frank backed our truck down the boat ramp. Perfect timing, what a trip!
Thanks for reading.
MSM
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