Though plans frequently unravel in unpredictable ways, every now and again things fall in place. Happily, my family and I enjoyed a five night visit at the South Llano River State Park in February 2022. Several arcs congruently merged for me on this trip. I was (1) getting out west, (2) camping in a remote region, and (3) canoeing a clear stream of water.
The clear stream part was an invasive notion from a fellow canoe team member Geoff Bynum. The idea gradually became my own.
There were some bonuses for us at this park.
Along with the usual armadillos, cottontail rabbits, whitetail deer and feral hogs we also saw axis deer and wild turkey. The last night of the trip a grey fox walked right into our camp!
In addition to the abundant wildlife, South llano River is a an International Dark Sky Park. We were there when the moon was nearly full, but we still saw some shooting starts and constellations we normally can't view from home.
High points of the trip were viewing the wildlife, stargazing, cooking and eating outdoors, taking early morning hikes, a last minute acquisition of a Kodiak tent and two canoe trips down the river. The days were mostly clear, sunny and warm enough for shirt sleeves, but night temperatures often dropped below freezing.
An interesting cooking discovery we made was to slice some potatoes into wedges, wrap them in aluminum foil with some butter and cook them in the evening campfire. Then we took the foil pack off the fire, cooled it on the fire ring grill. Before hitting the sack we put the potato pack in the van overnight. This last step was a precaution against animals raiding our camp in the night. The next morning the potatoes made a fine complement to the breakfast.
I'd like to say I was in tune with the environment, but that would be a stretch. The truth is this trip was a re-entry for us on several levels. Saying that, this was a great place and time to get back into our old ways. Hopefully we can sustain this trajectory and put some of the recent world calamity behind us.
This park in particular made me aware of the shortcomings of taking pictures with a smart phone. Nonetheless, we present the pictures on this page.
I am a convert to the belief that simple gear can help us best enjoy life, and that excellent gear can be life encumbering. With that caveat, if you look in the photo directly above and left you can see a strutting tom. Pictures are not the equal of seeing things in the flesh. Though we did not see any beavers there was sign of them on the South Llano. Best chances of seeing those rodents is after sunset. We did not see any porcupines either, but there is always next time!
The first day after arrival we rested from the drive. The big cubs and I took a hike to the scenic overlook while Momma and the smallest slept in, winning the sleeping contest.
The second day, after it had warmed up the kids played in the river.
On the third day we scouted the river for launch and landing sights. A nice feature of this park is that there is a short, three quarter mile river run that begins and ends in the park. This pleased me two ways. One, it simplified the shuttle. Two, as the South Llano River is a bit technical compared to the coastal rivers I am used to, I figured the big cubs and I could survive just about any class I riffle or series of rifles on a run that short.
I had done considerable satellite reconnaissance of the river but as if to make a point to myself, the river was dramatically more beautiful than the images I studied or took. My immediate responses were:
First, this is a very clean river. Except for some lost fishing tackle, there was zero trash. No plastic trash bags, bumper valances, or beverage bottles. Maybe I got lucky, and I am sure if I poked around I could find a blemish, but my eye met no other trash on the South Llano. It is rare to be in such a clean environment.
Second, the water is clear. In deeper places it was emerald green. The clarity and color might have been a winter time thing, and if it is and you are a canoe person, you owe it to yourself to paddle this river...in the winter.
Third, we had the entire river to ourselves. While canoeing the river we met no one, not on the water or on the banks.
The night of February 12th (the night before our first run) was cold enough to freeze water before 9:00 pm. The day of the run it warmed up to sixty degrees.
I classify the South Llano as a small stream. Though the current is swift, it generally lacks the force of the larger streams I have maneuvered. Perhaps this is one of the defining elements of a class I rapid? Nevertheless, all water, especially moving water, is to be respected. We used all our best safety practices.
The afternoon of February 13 we made our initial run of the South Llano River. I picked a calm spot to launch the Mad River Journey 167 canoe, not to far from the Park Road 73 Bridge. In a flash the cubs were refreshed on their draw stokes and we were heading downriver. When I told the Cubs "Draw Left!" they drew left. When I told them "Draw right!" they did so. With their efforts in the bow and mine in the stern we navigated the small water challenges, twists and turns of that short run on the South Llano. The riverbed was entirely gravel and we bumped over two barely submerged gravel bars without fuss.
About twenty minutes after launching we landed at the tube take out point. Dottie was waiting for us, the shuttle vehicle in a nearby parking lot.
Next came the 300 + yard portage, with a ninety pound canoe. Still not fully recovered from a series of winter illnesses, I took a five minute break after the half way point.
Elated with our success, we went to sleep planning to run the South Llano into Junction. Fair weather continued throughout our camping trip.
For the second trip we launched from the same place as the day before. We planned to meet the shuttle crew at the tube takeout for a picnic, then reconvene at the Flatrock Bridge in Junction. Having run the river above the tube takeout before, we made better time on the second trip. We bumped the riverbed more this time though. I later confirmed the river was staged at a slightly lower rate than the previous day.
This time we beat the shuttle crew to the tube takeout. After the picnic with the shuttle crew we relaunched into what was for us, the unknown.
Here is where it got interesting! We hadn't gone very far from the tube takeout when we came to the first real obstacle.
We we exiting some swift technical water and rounding a bend when we nearly jammed into a fallen pecan tree blocking the river. Acting quickly, we gently rammed the rugged Mad River canoe onto the gravel bar bank on the river right. There was no going under this tree, or turning back!
In my enthusiasm I forgot the possibility of a fallen tree blocking the river. This was a reentry refresher for sure! Back home I searched the satellite images and found I had overlooked some obvious signs. My vision is better now!
For the moment it was not a huge deal. We unloaded the lightly packed canoe. I hoisted the canoe overhead and we relaunched on the other side of the tree.
Back on the water I was eager to make up for the time lost to the portage. At the tube takeout I told Dottie we should arrive at the Flatrock Lane Bridge in about an hour. About twenty minutes down from the pecan tree portage the river split. Normally I would call the piece of dry land in the middle of a river an island. On a stream such as the South Llano, its more like the river split in two and rejoined itself downstream. The left split looked narrower and rockier, so we took the right stream.
Not much later...
...we came to our second fallen pecan tree, also blocking the river. This portage was a little longer and more intricate. There was a trail through some cane to the river left. While unloading the canoe and staging the gear I realized it might be possible to line the canoe under the branches. The stream was mild enough here that if lining failed I could back out and he-man hoist the canoe overhead.
Fortunately I lined the canoe and avoided another overhead carry.
In some of the images you can see the smallness of the river. The constants of the South Llano was its clarity and cleanliness.
By now I was aware that a good portion of the hour long trip had been eaten up with overcoming unplanned obstacles. My cell phone had poor reception and I wondered if the shuttle crew would become concerned with our slow progress. Well, we were not late, yet! So on we went.
In a little while the left stream rejoined the right and all was good again.
After these two obstacles I hoped no other trees blocked the river. Thankfully the rest of the river was free of blockage from trees.
From here to the Flatrock Bridge the South Llano River was a pleasant and lively stream. There were numerous shallow and narrow places. One place I felt I could touch either bank with my paddle blade. Other places I imagined my paddle scooped as much gravel as water.
We ground the canoe hull over multiple gravel bars. I got out several times to walk/push the grounded canoe to deeper water, but here were no more portages.
There were other places where the river was slow, broader and deeper. Here I let my crew rest. As I continued paddling (at a relaxed rate) I would tell them, let's rest until we reach a certain point. They made me proud when without my encouragement, they began paddling as soon as we reached that landmark.
On the river there was little evidence of urban development. Below the "island" we saw fish, turtles and wood ducks. Interestingly we paddled by two small but dead feral hogs in the river. I often see dead cattle, feral hogs and deer on the rivers I canoe.
Our high point of animal sightings was jumping a sounder of about twenty feral hogs from the riverbank. Twelve or more of the pigs were just little fellas, all ears and tails flapping as they ran.
By and by in the slow places I took pictures and texted Dottie. I let her know we were fine but had been delayed. She responded positively and all was well.
The swift current in several scenic places kept me busy. I was unable to get pictures in those spots. As a recon trip this one was like many others. Certain details, sometimes the finer things, go unobserved or unrecorded for one reason or another. All the more reason to return!
Eventually I glimpsed our take out bridge. The hour long trip had taken about two hours. Not bad considering the portage, lining and walking/pushing of the canoe. All good things must end. Sometimes I am able to enjoy one thing ending and and another beginning. This was one of those moments.
I pondered taking out on the northwest corner of the Flatrock Bridge, but a private property sign changed my mind. We got out at the southeast corner of the bridge. That takeout was a little challenging due to the granite rip rap and stepped concrete bank, but we did well enough. We were running short of daylight (and warmth!) or we might have taken out at the Junction City Park as indicated in the South Llano Paddling Trail web site. Maybe next time!
We took the cubs for a treat at the local Dairy Queen, which by the way, had the dining area open. Hooray! After that we went back to camp for a hearty supper and a campfire. Temperatures fell after sunset but we slept soundly that night!
Our second trip spanned about four and a half miles. The day after the trip we packed up and headed back east.
All in all, we enjoyed the change of scenery and pace. The emerald green South llano River and the state park on its banks are some Texas gems!
We plan to return soon.
Thanks for reading!
MSM
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